The Oly lenses are popular with the Canon crowd with adaptors, particularly the cheaper and less ambitious primes where Canon are weaker. I just managed to hold off bidding on a Leica R8. Must be mental. Might get the girlfriend to change my Ebay password and not tell me what it is.;) Dread to think where that would of led given Leica lens prices. I had two dream cameras back in the old days. One was the Pentax 110 system and I picked one of those up last year. The other was Contax.

Can't seem to get Contax out of my head. Again, the good lenses are expensive (21/2.8 for example), but there's masses of choice and the 50/1.4 is decently priced and superb. What about a Nikon F5 or an old FM2? Nikon lenses don't seem to hold value like the Canon ones, probably because the EF lenses of the last 20 years are fully functional with the new bodies. I think it depends what you want to do - I really like manual focus on film, but then I'm not shooting stuff that's fast moving or where a missed shot can't be taken again (in general).

My preference would be for an FM/Fe of some kind (FMs command a premium because the shutter operates at all speeds with a flat battery - the FE series doesn't (although it does have a 1/90s mechanical only backup). In terms of the pro bodies from the era, I reckon the F3 takes some beating - lovely to use. If you want autofocus, maybe an F90x or an F100? One thing to note, the colours of the White Stripes' Diana+ (and the Jack Holga) is only painted on, Lomo didn't get the body molded in that colour plastic, so expect it to chip off possibly. I know about the paint - such a shame as it wouldn't have cost them too much to do that properly. I didn't tell my wife that bit when I found out as she has already got fed up with me trying to talk her out of it.

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I don't imagine she will use it that much if I am honest - she certainly won't carry it around everywhere - so hopefully it will last a fair while. Kodak discontinuing more film (but have listed some replacements): KODAK PROFESSIONAL EKTACHROME 64 Film / EPR 1 KODAK PROFESSIONAL EKTACHROME 64 Film / EPR 1124 KODAK PROFESSIONAL EKTACHROME 64 Film / EPR / 6117 / 10 sh 4 x 5 in 1604719 KODAK PROFESSIONAL EKTACHROME 64 Film / EPR / 6117 / 10 sh 8 x 10 in 1225341 The suggested replacement for KODAK PROFESSIONAL EKTACHROME 64 Film / EPR is KODAK PROFESSIONAL EKTACHROME Film E100G or E100GX. KODAK PROFESSIONAL EKTACHROME 100 Film / EPN 1 KODAK PROFESSIONAL EKTACHROME 100 Film / EPN 1103 KODAK PROFESSIONAL EKTACHROME 100 Film / EPN / 10 sh 4 x 5 in 1404474 KODAK PROFESSIONAL EKTACHROME 100 Film / EPN / 50 sh 4 x 5 in 1489822 KODAK PROFESSIONAL EKTACHROME 100 Film / EPN / 10 sh 8 x 10 in 1767276 The suggested replacement for KODAK PROFESSIONAL EKTACHROME 100 Film / EPN is KODAK PROFESSIONAL EKTACHROME Film E100G or KODAK PROFESSIONAL EKTACHROME 100 Plus Film / EPP. KODAK PROFESSIONAL High-Speed Infrared Film / 1529 Link link (http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/products/films/discontinuedNotice.jhtml?id=0.2.26.14.25&lc=en). Few b&w photos from World Toy Camera Day 2007 taken with a Holga 120S and Ilford HP5+ film (which is way better than XP2).

Insecure All aboard the queasy turtle! Boink, you've got to be running out of space. Trouble with the MF rangefinders (Fuji make a good range AFAIK) is they still attact decent prices. Folders go for pin money though.

I guess MF was always the preserve of the pro and serious amature, so there are just less around. TD: If its a Paterson tank, almost certainly.

Grab your dev spool and turn it so it comes into two pieces. There should be three notches, one for 35mm (Smallest), one for 127 (A largely dead format) and one for 120, which is about twice the size of 35mm. Set it to that, if it still fits in the tank your fine.

With Canonets, check that the shutter operates - they are prone to gumming up if left on the shelf for a bit. Very nice cameras though - the QL19 (original model) can be had for not much money, if you aren't concerned about it's size (slightly bigger than the Electro). As Steve says, the Hi-Matic 7S (similar size, cheaper still) is very good too. I never had much luck with 2nd hand Electros (as the two dead ones bear testament).

One of the big problems with them is that they can appear to work, but actually be knackered (a metering problem that causes them to fire as though in bulb mode) and so I steer clear unless I can return the camera. Well then, I reckon a GIII is what you want. A QL19 shouldn't break the bank, and they're nice cameras. Avoid the 2.8s as they're shutter priority AE only, which means a dead battery = dead camera. Unless you fancy my Ricoh 500G, I suppose? Only f/2.8, but working meter, can be shot manually or shutter priority AE. BTW, did you get the Halina and XA2?

Thanks, might try to go for a GIII QL19. The 500G is tempting though, I'll get back to you. I didn't get the Halina or XA2. I'll e-mail you about it. Spot the difference I'm sure the contax is better made, but still, muucch more pricey.

I think you'll have a job getting a jap rangefinder with much other than a 40-50mm lens. They tend to me fixed lenses. You'll probably want a russian or german cam for interchangeable lenses.

John C probably knows more about the ranges. BTW, I have a Balda Super Baldina for sale at the moment. German 50/2.8 lens.

Nice shiney post war german design. Might be of interest. Also have the Hi-Matic 7s, big chunkey jap camera with a fast lens on the front. The only reasonably priced fixed lens rangefinder camera I can think of that has a lens wider than 40-45 is the XA (35mm, as I recall). I think there might be some of the older, less favoured brands that do too (Petri, Mamaiya 35mm rangefinders). I'm fairly sure my Ricoh is a 40mm. (If you can live with 40mm focal length, there are plently around).

With the Russian stuff, it's nice, but quirky - (I love my Kiev, but it has a crap viewfinder (great RF patch though) expect random frame spacing and stoneage ergonomics. Note also that the lenses can be relatively expensive (if you buy a FED or Zorkii, expect to pay much more than you did for the body for anything other than a 50mm. Kievs and Contaxes are very complicated internally, apparently - definitely one to try before you buy to avoid being landed with a paperweight.

Incidentally, have you thought about a compact SLR with wide/mild angle lens? Something like the OM10, maybe? I thought about it, and then I thought about what Meyerowitz said in the Genius of Photography about the RFs viewfinder being at the side of the camera so your other eye still has very good vision, and I do appreciate that aspect of a RF. OM10s seem quite cheap so it may be worth trying out anyway. How loud is the shutter on them? I quite like the discreetness of the Yashica's leaf shutter.

I can't think of anything other than a rangefinder that suits. Waist Level finders can be good for candid, as you don't typically have your eyes up to the camera and people assume your not using it. But it only tends to be on SLR's and they have abit of a clatter. Trouble is i don'tknow many autofocus cams with waist finders and manual focus is troublesome. (Unless you have a very wide angle lens) Incidently, my Flektogon has finally arrived. 20mm prime lovelyness. HKUK - Did you get the shuttle lag problem with the P30T?

Or is it good as gold? TD - it might be an idea to leave it a bit and see if it still works, nothing worse than shooting a roll and realising the shutters died half way through. I used my Exakta Varex IIA for the first time yesterday at the brum flickrmeet (Even managed to persuade somebody to use the Exa instead of just digital) - I've realised either the film rewind mechanism is broken or I can't work out how to use it. (I can unload easy enough in the darkroom, just had to swap to another body). Adsa are fine for processing, C41 is such a standard process. They might get more dust / fingermarks on the negs, depending on the care of the person operating.

The scanners tend to be quick 'n' dirty. A dedicated flatbed would probably do a better job. As far as colour, C41 does tend to be much more 'muggy' than a decent slide film. Tones are nice, just not as bright. For B&W, I can do a roll or two if you want some badly processed results. (I'm getting a lot of problems with water marks forming). Just depends which is closest.

Daft to spend more on the fuel getting to the supermarket to save a few pennys. It all depends on the operator you get, some are careful, some not, but its largely pot luck as its all shift based. (Some will know i'm crossprocessing, and tell me it won't work, some will just sling it in the machine without a word. I generally put a sticker marked C41 over the E6 wording) The only time asda have really been neglectful is with an old russian camera with uneven frames (Some had 2mm gaps, some 15mm). They just lopped it up and then said 'Its not 35mm'. Yes it is dear, you just need to pay attention!

I'm shocked people keep buying the Yashicas, they're proving horendously unreliable. If your ebay shopping, make darn sure that the listing days its in complete working order, Your gonna buy a lemon otherwise! (I speak from bitter experience) I didn't see your posts with problems until after I had already bid - it was the same seller you had problems with. I did pick it up fairly cheaply, so it was no great loss if it is a lemon. Alarms bells were ringing after seeing your comments as the as the auction said 'OPTICALLY PERFECT CONDITION.THIS IS A WORKING ITEM, SHUTTER FIRING CORRECTLY' which at first I thought would be good news, but not saying 'fully working' and the specific comment about the shutter working made me worry whether the film advance might have a problem, looks like I was right.

Thanks for the link to the repair site Boink. At least it looks fairly easy to get to the frame advance mechanism to have a go at it. Hadn't realised you'd bought from Member. Most sales people on ebay will list something as 'Untested' or 'I don't know anything about cameras' if they know its broken. That guy will list everything that does work and omit anything that doesn't work (Optically perfect ->Lens isn't scratched, but casing looks like its been rolled over with a truck). I generally try to be really honest when I decided to change cameras and flog the old ones on ebay. I've got a Balda rangefinder if you want something to play with.

German built (Qwerky, but feels good in the hand and looks shiney!), rangefinder posssibly a little out (Not properly tested), but unlike the Yash it's only got a 50mm 2.8 Triplet and top shutter speed of 1/300th. I've got a Balda rangefinder if you want something to play with. German built (Qwerky, but feels good in the hand and looks shiney!), rangefinder posssibly a little out (Not properly tested), but unlike the Yash it's only got a 50mm 2.8 Triplet and top shutter speed of 1/300th. Many thanks for the offer Wishy. I will have a go at the Yashica over the weekend and see if I can bring it back to life, otherwise I may well take you up on the Balda. A friend of mine thinks they may have a broken Electro squirreled away somewhere, so I might be able to make one good camera from the two.

As to Member.' S tactics with descriptions you are spot on. I did think about pulling out after reading your problems, but decided for the relatively small amount involved I would take the risk - but I would certainly not use him again. Like you I would probably err way in the other direction when describing a faulty camera so to not disappoint anyone. EDIT - had a quick go at it during my lunch hour. The problem is to do with the clutch that engages and disengages the winder - basically a spring with a bar which keys into the winding cog. I managed to get it working for a couple of winds before it slipped again.

Hopefully it is just a case of getting everything lined up correctly then it will work, fingers crossed. I managed to get the film advance working in the Yashica in the end. I had to bend the key bar in the clutch slightly, and now it seems to be OK:) I shot a test roll of expired film yesterday to make sure it was worth persevering with. I had to shoot at 1/500s as I have not put a battery in it yet, so all the apertures were f4 or wider so I did not have a lot of DoF to play with. I think the rangefinder is slightly out, but again the lack of DoF is probably exacerbating that, as well as the dim patch and my lack of experience with RF cameras. Definitely worth persevering with the camera though, I think, for playing about with film.

My next tasks with it are to get a battery adapter to test the meter, and to see if I can get the focus ring to be less stiff. Also, the pin that resets the meter does not reset at the moment unless I wind the camera on upside down, but not sure I can do anything about that - maybe a bit of oil of some sort will coax it to disengage more easily. If I can't get the meter working I still think it will be useful as a bright day camera at 1/500s. Like the tones in those Art. Not sure whether this belongs here really, but a review of Michael Campeau's photographs of darkrooms is on 5B4 here. Also possibly interesting to film photographers is this work frustratingly sized too small to see properly on the web, which consists of a single negative printed by 50 different photo labs. So I'm lucky enough to be going to New York City next week for work.

I'm obviously going to take my 400D with me, but the burning question is: Should I take a film camera as well? Going through the same dilemma myself atm, going to NY in April. 350D and Fuji digital compact will definitely go, and my wife is taking her Diana+ (or a Holga if she is too scared of busting her 'Meg' Diana), but I am very tempted to take my Yashica Electro and maybe even a Lomo 4-shot action shooter too. Gets a bit silly after a while though, and we are only going for 4 days. How long are you there for? You could buy film and get it processed while you are over there maybe? .but I'm worried about the bulk of the camera and whether it's sensible to take it with me, especially considering the film's going to have to go through x-ray machines.

Buy film there - (it's cheap, or at least it was in 2007). Check Adorama and B&H's price lists, and grab the stuff you want. We flew from Newark, and left over film was handchecked by the TSA staff with no quibbles at all. Note that B&H do lots of Efke (Adox) films, which are really nice, and they also do bulk roll of the same (can't get it here so far as I know) so it's worth bringing some film back. The OM with the 24mm would be a good combination for NY.

Leave the Rollei at home for safety's sake. Cheers, that's the conclusion I've reluctantly come to. Now the question is do I take the OM10, 30 or 4Ti!

It's going to be the 4Ti to be honest: what's the point of a nice camera if you don't ever use it? Besides, the OM4Ti is nicely battered so it doesn't look expensive:D Don't try B&H on Saturday, if you're there, they are shut.

I've noticed they must be pretty strict Authodox because even the website won't accept orders on a Saturday! As for the Holga, either go for the 120N model or the 120GN which has a glass lens instead of the plastic one of the 120N, and I'll buy it off you when you get back off holiday.:D;) It doesn't look like B&H do the G version. Is there a point in getting a 'better quality' lens on a Holga?

Cheers, that's the conclusion I've reluctantly come to. Now the question is do I take the OM10, 30 or 4Ti! It's going to be the 4Ti to be honest: what's the point of a nice camera if you don't ever use it?

Besides, the OM4Ti is nicely battered so it doesn't look expensive:D That's a good idea. I'd use some proper b&w film, like Ilford HP5+ for the best detail of NY. Though if you're good with exposure on the ON4 then slide film should / will have great colour. It doesn't look like B&H do the G version.

Is there a point in getting a 'better quality' lens on a Holga? Some like the sharpness of the middle, others think the Holga GN is more of a medium format camera rather than just a toy camera. It's also the one model I don't yet own. That's a good idea. I'd use some proper b&w film, like Ilford HP5+ for the best detail of NY.

Though if you're good with exposure on the ON4 then slide film should / will have great colour. Here she is::luv: Some like the sharpness of the middle, others think the Holga GN is more of a medium format camera rather than just a toy camera. It's also the one model I don't yet own. I'll look out for it - if I find one and it's not expensive I might buy two.don't get your hopes up though - I'm not sure if I'll get to anywhere other than B&H on the photo shopping front! Well, I've just been to B&H and it's MASSIVE.

Sadly, they don't do the Holga GN - in fact they'd never heard of it. I didn't get a standard one in the end because it's my last day here tomorrow and so I'd not really get much chance to use it. Work took way more time than expected so I've only really managed to get out in the evenings and B&H closes fairly early so today was literally my only chance to get there - I only had 1/2 hour before they closed as well. If anyone else gets a chance to come over, it's well worth a visit BUT beware that they have relatively limited opening times, unlike the rest of the city! They close sometime around 5:30 most days and midday on Friday and they're closed all day Saturday. Soz Boink, but if I spot one in my travels tomorrow, I'll grab it;). I'm glad I took the Olympus with me:D Not really had a chance to do anything but a little cropping - I only got home at 10pm!

I'm pretty sure it wasn't XP2 I used It'll be Kodak BW400CN. Its not quite the same as XP2, but its very similar.

Note the smooth grainless look (Very low contrast too, which gives it a slightly wider latitude). Personally I like things a little more contrasty and gritty, HP5 Style.

Don't think airport security would appreciate you taking a dev tank, developer and fixer on the plane tho! You can actually get 'XRay proof' bags for film for hand luggage, and should be fine putting them in a seperate clear bag and asking for hand checking, even without the bag. Still, I'd probably take a mountain of film, and it probably wouldn't be much appreciated. It'll be Kodak BW400CN. Its not quite the same as XP2, but its very similar.

Note the smooth grainless look (Very low contrast too, which gives it a slightly wider latitude). Personally I like things a little more contrasty and gritty, HP5 Style. Yeah - I don't like the 'washed out' look you get from the film either. It happened to be the only mono film in the shop though (Duane Reade). Quite impressed with their D&P - I'll scan some of the prints - they seem to have punched it up quite well at the printing stage. If I go again (and it's very likely) I'll take some contrasty stuff with me - is there a C41 process film that fits the bill? Just a feeler to see if there is any interest before I go to the hassle of photos and a new thread in the classifieds.

I have a one owner chrome Nikon FE. Original box ( matching serial number ), manual, 'Nikon Guide to Photography' booklet; everything even down to the original triangular strap eyelets and Nikon branded silica gel packet!

Light seals & mirror foam replaced recently. 'Brassing' of film box lid holder and a small ding in the pentaprism housing and another on the base. Meter agrees with my D70, all controls and moving bits work freely.

If there's any interest I'll take some pics and stick it in the classifieds. At the moment I have no idea how much its worth boxed, manual and everything. Don't often see things like that on ebay! Incidentally, while in B&H I managed to pick up a (slightly battered) FA-1 viewfinder for my bargain Pental LX. Boxed too, so I now have the complete camera, plus a load of extras (3 other viewfinders - all weird - a grip and a data back), all boxed along with a boxed F1.2 minty 50mm for it too! Sadly it's got the mirror stick* problem and I've no idea how much it'll cost to repair so I can't put a film through it.

I suspect once that's fixed I've got a pretty penny's worth of gear there and in all it's cost me 80 quid (excluding the repair.). Which is nice. *I've read that someone managed to repair this with an itty bit of clingfilm over the offending rubber buffer, which I might try myself. Samsung Guru Music Games Download.

Anything thicker apparently screws up focussing because it lifts the mirror while it's at rest. Edit: Yes, I still have jet-lag. I'm wide awake because in Woz-time it's currently only 8:15pm:(. Iceland (Reykjavik) - should be around 0C most of the time.

I'm expecting to shoot slide more than anything else. (Lets face it B&W will probably let it down a bit, especially as I'm on a camera limit imposed by girlfirend so can't have the usual 2 cameras around my neck.) I've got a Pentax ME-Super, which would probably be the best option. Would imagine that 0C shouldn't be too hard to deal with. The Exa is supposedly good for cold conditions, but mine has probably never been services. Exaktas, Can't find much info on. I do want to take one of these as the Flektogon 20/4 is a lovely lens, as is the Biotar.

The idea of shooting slide film in a fully manual camera does sound a bit scary though. (Certainly i'm going to have to be more attentive than usual! That said my Gosten meter is accurate and easy to use) Will probably take Viv (The girlfriend actually likes the cam) and the Oly XA2. Perhaps I might dust off my minolta compact digital as well, just incase my film gets nuked. Also want to try my hand at shooting the northern lights, which i believe Astria is the film for. Ta, but I phoned Pentax today and they offer a repair and service option. They say that the average price is around 50-60 quid and they do a full service with any repair.

I think I'll give them a go because they're only a couple of miles from where I work! Edit: Just goes to show that d&p on B&W isn't such a fine tuned science.I just developed a roll from my Rollei that had been sitting around in a damp garage since the summer.

I wasn't in a light-proof container - just sitting in the box with my chemicals. It's a 120 roll film, so it's really not recommended to leave them out as they have no proper light seal on them.

The Developer and Fixer has been opened for 6 months, so 3 months past its best and I wasn't too careful with measurements or time. In fact, the temperature was about 5 degrees too low, so I just gave it another couple of minutes and hoped! Here's the result: Now, I know it's not high art, but bear in mind that that's a street partially in shadow and I guessed the exposure!

Also, I think there's an orange filter on the front there. Considering all the above, I think it's come out very well exposed - I didn't expect to get anything at all! The scan is straight from the scanner - no sharpening or contrast - just resized. So for anyone scared of developing your own, give it a go because it's very hard to get it wrong! Well, another trip to Wolverhampton camera fair. More money spent, but I've got some good stuff I think.

(BTW, would recommend it for anybody around the west mids, plenty of stuff, really good to be able to handle it before and see that you definately like the feel and get on well with the camera. Plus you can check the bleeding thing works!) I've got myself a Exa II for £3 (Same mount as the Exaktas, although the II was nowhere near as nice to handle and a much lower build quality. Still, you never know when your going to need a backup backup backup backup body.) XA2 + Flash for £6, probably should have haggled more Zorki 4K (Fully functional) + Jupiter 8 (Oil on blades, no staining) for a tenner inc Kiev case which fits. Exakta Varex VX, cosmetically good, with freshly replaced shutters and presumably a CLA. £60 with a 50mm Zebra tessar. (Probably over the odds but at least i could check the bloody thing works!) Also got stuck in on the 50p expired film bin and got some Ektachrome 200, Afga optima II, Varicolour 160, NPS160 and even some TMax in either 35mm or 120 rolls. 10 rolls should be good for a bit of XPro:D Also got the name of a good Exakta repairman:).

Sorry guys - I can't find the details of the guy that repaired my Rollei - I think they're on my old phone that I just replaced:cry: I'll keep trying! Edit.googled him! I'm 99.9% certain that this is the guy: Mr. Brian Mickleboro, XXXXXXX Bishop's Stortford XXXXXXX Phone XXXXXXXXXXX Formerly of The Studio Workshop, London.

Mickleboro is factory trained and has 30-40 years of experience in servicing Rollei cameras Mail me at dvf.woz@googlemail.com for the full details - I'm not sure he'd want me posting them on an open forum. So I found a serious bunch of old cameras and gear at a charity shop in town today. Basically I asked if they had any and they came down with a large crate full! Lots of junk, but I got this: Which seems in really good condition. The rubber seal has decayed a bit but apart from that it looks mint. The focus ring's very easy to turn, but I'm not sure if that's not normal on these. Also got this: Still had a roll in it, which would be interesting to develop.

Colour sadly, so I'll have to pay someone to do it if I get really curious. The controls on this are.intersting. I'm not sure how you're meant to focus it either as the ground glass section in the middle is RUBBISH! Paid a tenner each, so I'm not sure if they're bargains or not. Another charity shop down the road has an OM1 with a 50mm F1.4 on the front. Sadly the 1.4 looks like it's got some minor fungus in the elements or else I'd have snapped that up too. I've got too many OM bodies though!

I also bought an Ensign selflex 820 Special. Looks to be in good condition, but it was an impulse and I'm not sure I'll ever put a film in it. Looking on ebay I don't think it's worth much.

All in all, there were so many to choose from I kind of panicked! I think the Oly rangefinder is the only one I'll ever use though. Not sure if we have any large format users on here, but this might be useful; How to load lf film holders (That takes me back!

His 3 state conundrum is easily solved. I used to use the locks as indicators of whether film was loaded or not. So, if the slides weren't locked, there was no film loaded. If they were locked, there was film loaded and the colour of the slide indicated exposed or not. If I was using different films, I'd also write on the slide tabs in pencil - making sure I erased the pencil before loading more film.

That's another way to indicate wether the slide is loaded or not. Another nail in the coffin for film photography: Polaroid Corp., the Massachusetts company that gave the world instant film photography, is shutting down its film manufacturing lines in the state and abandoning the technology that made the company famous. 'The Norwood plant is shutting down, and we will soon be winding down activities at the Waltham facility as well,' said Kyle MacDonald, senior vice president of Polaroid's instant photography business segment. The closures, set for completion during this quarter, will eliminate about 150 jobs. In the late 1970s, Polaroid employed about 15,000 in Massachusetts. The Norwood and Waltham plants make large-format films used by professional photographers and artists. Link here (& here (A couple of comments here (from people who worked at Polaroid and point the finger of blame at the management.

Wonder if Fuji will buy the company? Most iPhone owners probably just chucked the handset's box in the bin seconds after leaving the shop. Not designer Scot Hampton - instead, he turned Apple's packaging into a film camera. Hampton’s dubbed his design the iHole and describes it as “a revolutionary analogue photographic device constructed from the recycled packaging of digital technology”. It's a 120 film pinhole camera, if you couldn't guess.

His website is here (Cool, eh? For the filmies. EBay (50 rolls of Afga Vista (24+6 exposures, so not much short of the 'Proper' 36 exposures) for £18 inc postage. At 36p a roll you really can't argue.

The same stuff as I used for this shot (Except its 400, not 100) Its a nice film to use. 50 should last me a while. Now I've just got to sneak 50 rolls of film past the girlfriend. Shame that's not 120 film, I'd have been all over that like a rash. Uh, hold on: Maybe I don't need any more film.:doh.

I was in Boots Milton Keynes yesterday and was quite surprised to see some 110 film on their clearance display. I haven't noticed any for years. Now if Pentax were to re-engineer the 110 system using a 4/3rds sensor ( masking off some pixels ) they'd have something really unique. It'd be interesting to see if they could fit everything into the space available. The rear screen would of course be tiny. Sorry, went digital there! I used to really crave a Pentax 110 SLR when I was younger, and have come pretty close to buying a kit on ebay recently, but the availability of 110 film and processing has put me off.

I also bought an Ensign selflex 820 Special. Looks to be in good condition, but it was an impulse and I'm not sure I'll ever put a film in it. Looking on ebay I don't think it's worth much.

So I lied, and it's actually the first one I've put a roll through! Took a while to figure it out - it's a bellows folder which actually appears to be in amazing condition. Bitch to focus - it's an uncoupled rangefinder. You basically look through the (terrible) viewfinder and focus using the rangefinder, then look at the top of the camera to see the distance, then dial this distance in on the lens! This is of course on top of setting the apature and speed, winding the film and cocking the shutter. We're not talking fast here!

Still, I got some pictures out of it: Dreadful focusing on my part. Getting better, although my guesswork on the metering is off: Metering and focus correct! Shame the composition is crap!

All are un-manipulated - just scanned and sized. Edit: incidentally, getting a picture without camera shake is an achievement in itself - the shutter on the lens is triggered by a lever that runs the length of the bellows at an angle. It requires some force to get it to fire and when you're holding an already awkward camera it's tough to do. I can see why Leica Ms were so much admired when they came out, and my admiration for the first photo-journalists grows and grows if they were using these Ensigns, which were apparently well regarded in their day as an easy to use camera! My folder (Braun Paxina) doesn't have a rangefinder, coupled or uncoupled. I litterally just guess.

So: Unfold lens Wind on using sophisticated 'red window' system Guess distance, set on lens Guess exposure, decide shutter speed, set on camera Cock shutter Compose through viewfinder, however once the lens is out, the bottom quarter of the viewfinder is obscured by the lens barrel. Release shutter Try to remeber to wind on. Still, wings of flight (Scateboard shot) came out ok on it, and with medium format the resolution is still there if the image isn't sharp. A scan from my first roll with the Pentacon Six, the shutter needs regreasing as you can see with the dark part of the right hand side of the photo. Still looks to be a great camera though and I'm looking forward to using it with the Flektogon 50mm f/4 lens. This is a scan of a Polaroid taken way back in 1993 or 1994 (gotta love the clothes!).

Only found this a couple of days ago and thought to scan it in before the colours start to fade. Turned out well considering it was a basic point & shoot camera. Just got back from NYC.

Picked up two Holgas (120N and 120 CFN) and a Diana+ (and also Boink!' S cable release kit he asked for:)) BH Photo is a bit of an intense experience, particularly just before closing time when I popped in. Then lucked out on processing when it turned out I had a lab one block from my hotel which would process 120 for me.

Cost $5 per roll for process only, dropped them in during the morning, and they were done by 3pm:thumbs: It is on the E side of Broadway between 94th and 95th streets, in case it is useful to someone else staying on the Upper West Side in the future. Ended up shooting 5 rolls of 120 (and 2 of 35mm) between myself and my wife to take full advantage. The Holgas got more use than my 350D in the end, I reckon. So, now I need a scanner. Any particular reason to go for an Epson 4490 over a Canon 8800F (or vice versa)?

Both around the same price (£130). BH Photo is a bit of an intense experience, particularly just before closing time when I popped in. It's mental isn't it? I found their purchase system really odd too. I liked the way they were taking everyone's bags off them, but when I tried to give them my Billingham they said it was fine to carry my camera bag with me:D Did you go to the second hand section? Bit of an Alladin's cave there!

I managed to get an eye level finder for my bargain Pental LX, and they are like rocking horse do-do. (Now I just need to get the camera's sticking reflex mirror repaired!).

Did you go to the second hand section? Bit of an Alladin's cave there! I managed to get an eye level finder for my bargain Pental LX, and they are like rocking horse do-do. (Now I just need to get the camera's sticking reflex mirror repaired!) No, I didn't have time. We only arrived 30 mins before closing time so didn't have time to browse, just rushed to get what we wanted so we could shoot with it for the rest of our stay. Probably a good thing really, as I would probably have ended up buying a new 70-200 f4 L for my 350D and a Voigtlander Bessa rangefinder, which would have cost a lot more than my 3 plastic cameras;). Finally got around to scanning in all my Holga shots from NYC.

I went for a Canon 8800 scanner in the end. Really pleased with the scan times from it (2-3mins for 3 6x6 120 frames), and the fast start up (as it uses LEDs) is nice too. There are loads more on my Flickr site. I didn't have that many wasted frames after all, which was particularly surprising with the 35mm shots as I thought somewhere along the line I would muck that up. Particularly when trying to wind the film back in the cupboard in the hotel room;). Just picked up a Zeiss Nettar 517/2 for £15 from a local camera shop doing a hand hand clearance.

The F6.3 Novar probably isn't the best around, but its 6x9 and with that much negative you could put an image through a milk bottle and still get a good negative. All manual viewfinder affair, but i'm used to that from the Braun Paxina. Looking forward to using that one.

Anybody else doing 6x9? My Ensign Selfix 820 has flaps in the film transport that let you choose either 6x6 or 6x9.

I just put my first film through at 6x9 actually - not processed it yet though. Art - those pictures look awsome! I've just bought (from Ebay) the following: Canon Eos 5 + VG10 grip (used but in full working condition) Kodak Retina 2c (lovely condition) Canon Canonette GL19 (lovely condition but needs the seals replaced) I also bought 5 rolls of Ilford FP4 from 7 day shop. 1) Unfortunately, it never occurred to me to find somewhere that would develop B&W film:( 2) I am looking for a scanner to scan in the negs (once I can get them processed) - but I'm not looking at spending huge amounts. Any advice on the above queries would be helpful.

I've just bought (from Ebay) the following: Canon Eos 5 + VG10 grip (used but in full working condition) Kodak Retina 2c (lovely condition) Canon Canonette GL19 (lovely condition but needs the seals replaced) I also bought 5 rolls of Ilford FP4 from 7 day shop. 1) Unfortunately, it never occurred to me to find somewhere that would develop B&W film:( 2) I am looking for a scanner to scan in the negs (once I can get them processed) - but I'm not looking at spending huge amounts. Any advice on the above queries would be helpful. Peak Imaging process B&W - Process only is around £3.60 for 120 or 24exp 35mm, around a fiver for 36exp 35mm. Postage is £2.50 (or £1.25 for one roll process only).

Printing and scanning from them adds quite a bit more on, though. Alternatively develop it yourself if you can be bothered. For a fiver a roll to get someone else to do it I cannot be bothered atm, but it works out very cost effective if you have the time and the inclination. As for a scanner, you can buy cheaper flatbeds that will support 35mm, but it might be worth spending a bit more and getting something that supports 120 film too in case you go in that direction in the future. It will also mean you can scan 8 frames rather than 4 in each pass. The two cheap choices are Canon 8800F or Epson 4490, both around £125. I have the Canon and have been pretty impressed with it.

I've just bought (from Ebay) the following: Canon Eos 5 + VG10 grip (used but in full working condition) Kodak Retina 2c (lovely condition) Canon Canonette GL19 (lovely condition but needs the seals replaced) I also bought 5 rolls of Ilford FP4 from 7 day shop. 1) Unfortunately, it never occurred to me to find somewhere that would develop B&W film:( 2) I am looking for a scanner to scan in the negs (once I can get them processed) - but I'm not looking at spending huge amounts.

Any advice on the above queries would be helpful. FP4 isn't my first choice for black and white, the grain is too small and gritty. Theres much less grain on acros or much nicer grain on HP5. Should have some spare light seals if you need, otherwise the 'Interslice' kit on ebay is good. Seals on the Canonette are a very common fault. Peak will do a good job on black and white. I can process and scan the first few rolls if you want.

Plenty of to said for C41 though, its cheap as chips and any muppit lab can process and scan for next to nothing. Yeah, I guess it could be do-able. 120 is fine - I've put tons through recently as well as 220, 5 by 4 etc etc. Unfortunately the uni is pretty strict on cross-processing as they'd struggle to monitor and keep it under control across all students so I can't do this.

Would you be interested then Boink? Approx how many films do you go through per month as a guide?

What does cross processing actually entail in a processing machine? I thought it was just a case of whacking it in on the same settings as normal, it just happens to be slide film you are putting through. I assume it is more complicated than that, then? I only ask because the nice lady up at Tesco said she would put some E6 through her C41 machine for me (99p:) ) but I don't want to get her in trouble if it causes problems for the machine somehow EDIT - just had a quick search up about it.

Seems it contaminates the chemicals, so should only be done when the chemicals are about to be changed. I had better not ask Tesco lady to do it for me after all. This threads been quiet for some time. Must be the weather - I have a half finished roll in a Yashica Electro I am testing out that has been in there for about 3 weeks now.

Has anyone got any recommendations for a cheap way into waist level medium format photography? I am enjoying my Holgas but fancy having a go at something which can take full advantage of the larger negatives. Is a Yashica Mat the best bet? Or maybe a Seagull? I think a few people have mentioned on here that Mamiya or Bronica kit can be found fairly cheaply now - what would be a good starter lens/body combo if I went that route? And is it doable for under £200? I've been having great results with a zeiss Nettar, 6x9 negatives are quite something!

With the nettar you have you guess the focus distance, set the shutter speed manually, and of course there is no waist level finder, but they are good fun and about 15 quid a pop. Different league to the Mamiyas and Bronicas. Try and handle a camera and make sure you can get on with the mirrored image on the WLF - it was hard work when i first used them on the Exakta, but it comes naturally now. Some find it completely useable.

Been shooting plenty of late and had a reasonably haul at a camera fair. I've just converted an Ensign ful-vue for pinhole use, looking forward to putting that through its paces. I'm accumulating far far too many cameras though! Must be the weather - I have a half finished roll in a Yashica Electro I am testing out that has been in there for about 3 weeks now. Has anyone got any recommendations for a cheap way into waist level medium format photography? I am enjoying my Holgas but fancy having a go at something which can take full advantage of the larger negatives.

Is a Yashica Mat the best bet? Or maybe a Seagull? I think a few people have mentioned on here that Mamiya or Bronica kit can be found fairly cheaply now - what would be a good starter lens/bo.